Patio Covers directly attach to your homes fascia board with the included hanger, your fascia board needs to be a minimum of two inches thick and allow enough space for the hanger to attach. Note: The Insulated patio cover does not have an adjustable hanger so you would need to correct the angle of your fascia if it is not plumb in order for the cover to be able to attach to your fascia board. Your homes fascia board needs to be properly secured to the rafters, the use of a 90 degree bracket will create a mechanical connection, these "A34" clips can be purchased locally and are very inexpensive; the clips attach to the back side of fascia board and side of rafter.
If your rafters are not exposed from the bottom side of your overhang you have a closed soffit, with no access to your rafters the A34 clips will not be able to be used, speak with your building department to determine if your fascia board is secured well enough to support the aluminum patio cover.
If your homes fascia board is not plumb please let us know so we can make sure you receive the correct hanger and installation instructions.
These two pieces are the adjustable hanger for non-plumb fascia boards, the two pieces A-Rail and J-Hanger work as a hinge to allow you to set the hanger to the correct angle. Call us at if you have any questions. Please call us at or fill out our simple quote form and receive a delivered price for your complete DIY Kit.
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All Rights Reserved. Attaching to your Fascia Board Benefit: Utilizes the roof eave as part of the patio cover, allows for taller patio roof heights. Drawback: Allowable Projection Clear Span of Cover is generally much less than wall attachment; with a fascia attachment the allowable clear span is limited by the strength of the Homes Eave Roof rafters and Eave Projection, the Eave must be strong enough to support the extra load of the patio cover plus the potential load of rainfall, snow and wind uplift.
Patio Cover Installation Patio Covers directly attach to your homes fascia board with the included hanger, your fascia board needs to be a minimum of two inches thick and allow enough space for the hanger to attach. For fascia boards that are not plumb straight up and down the rafters will need to be cut at an angle to match the pitch of the fascia board.
Preparing your home fascia board Your homes fascia board needs to be properly secured to the rafters, the use of a 90 degree bracket will create a mechanical connection, these "A34" clips can be purchased locally and are very inexpensive; the clips attach to the back side of fascia board and side of rafter. Roof overhang with Closed Soffit If your rafters are not exposed from the bottom side of your overhang you have a closed soffit, with no access to your rafters the A34 clips will not be able to be used, speak with your building department to determine if your fascia board is secured well enough to support the aluminum patio cover.
Fascia angles If your homes fascia board is not plumb please let us know so we can make sure you receive the correct hanger and installation instructions. Alternate Attachments. Contact Us Call Us sales try-tech.Metal fascia has become a big component of most new home builds; however, rising material costs have meant that profits are simply no longer there. Peter Coll explains. It has always amazed me that roofing companies are on a race to the bottom when it comes to the installation of metal fascia and gutter.
Metal fascia is such a small part of every home but it is such an important link in the construction process. Metal fascia was first introduced into the construction industry in the early s and at the time a lot of people said it would never be accepted and that no one would want it. The answer is obvious: timber fascia has to be painted, repainted, and then repainted again only for it to eventually rot. It is also a really important aesthetic component to most houses these days as it frames the look of the entire house.
Stramit, Stratco, Lysaght etc. At the current rate metal fascia is the most unprofitable product being sold in the domestic building marketplace.
Looking at this the profit percentage is probably far too high, I would love it but I am never going to achieve it. Please See Table 2.
So I again ask: why have roofing companies allowed a product to become essentially profitless? I am guessing that in a large part this is competition driven. In the early s there were 4 or 5 companies installing metal fascia in Victoria and they all knew each other and life was mostly amicable, but as we hit the s this number would have been in the hundreds and now thousands.
As bigger national companies entered the industry with better processes and buying power, the price dropped drastically and the industry followed suit; builders became accustomed to paying less and less. These guys knew what prices they were paying for products and when they moved or started on their own they expected the same rates. The biggest issue in the southern states is the domination of the roofing industry by roof tiles.
Roofers can afford to accept minimal margin on a lead in product like fascia and gutter if they also get the roofing to balance it out but no one can afford to take that kind of a hit if the roof is tile.
BlueScope has been looking at ways to raise the percentage of metal roof installs in these southern states but have been fighting a winless battle. Over the last 10 years all of the major roof tile manufacturers have tried to buy or develop their own fascia and gutter companies and these massive conglomerates with all of their resources have failed or walked away… why?
Because there is no profit in it, but we, the roofing companies, allow it to continue without raising the prices of metal fascia and gutter. Tiles are so much heavier and result in more maintenance When you are doing the roof you have more visibility on the job and can rectify any issues before finishing it Because you can. Installers cannot continue to absorb these increases and if they do, the likelihood of them becoming insolvent is very high.Menards 2x6x24
When these products fail, and they will, they will not be there to fulfil the warranty and the insurance company will have to foot the bill. Building Connection. Columns Peter Coll - Roofing. In the installation equation would have looked something like this: Please See Table 1 Looking at this the profit percentage is probably far too high, I would love it but I am never going to achieve it.
Previous Article Window protection: worth the effort. Next Article Tamsi waterproofing solutions.Glenda Taylor is a contractor and a full-time writer specializing in construction writing. She also enjoys writing business and finance, food and drink and pet-related articles.
Her education includes marketing and a bachelor's degree in journalism from the University of Kansas. Freshly painted fascia board is attractive. Within a couple of years, however, the paint can start to peel and you're looking at a weekend of climbing up and down a tall ladder to scrape, prime and repaint the fascia.Chia seeds in punjabi
Wrapping the fascia with aluminum will keep it looking fresh for years. Installing aluminum fascia trim is one of the simpler do-it-yourself home projects, but getting it right at the top of the gables requires some angle cutting. Mark a strip of aluminum fascia trim on both sides to match the measurement and snap a chalk line between the marks. Cut the aluminum fascia, lengthwise, along the chalk line with metal shears. Standard aluminum fascia comes in to foot lengths and 6- to 8-inch widths.
When you cut the aluminum fascia, leave the L-shaped edge intact. Hold the aluminum trim along the fascia board on the gable, and make a pencil mark on the trim that matches the bottom edge of the fascia board.
Cut the bottom angle of the aluminum fascia trim and put it back up, slipping the long edge of the trim beneath the metal flashing that covers the top of the gable fascia board. Align the bottom edge of the aluminum trim with the bottom edge of the fascia board.
Insert pan-head Phillips screws in the bottom edge of the aluminum fascia trim, about every 24 inches. This is where the L-shape meets the bottom of the fascia board. Install the next piece of aluminum fascia trim, overlapping the first piece by 2 inches. Slip this piece under the metal flashing and install with screws as you did the first piece. Measure from the peak of the gable to end of the last piece of installed fascia trim, and add 4 inches.
For example, if the distance from the edge of the last piece of trim to the highest point in the peak of the gable is 36 inches, add 4 inches and make a mark on a new piece of fascia trim 40 inches from the end of the trim. Do not cut the trim yet. Make a second mark 2 inches shorter than the first mark. In this example, you'd have a mark at 40 inches and another at 38 inches. Hold the aluminum trim along the fascia board and a carpenter's level to make two vertical pencil marks, one at 40 inches and the other at 38 inches in this example.
It's important to make these marks while holding the trim on the fascia to get the angles right. Notch the tip of the fascia trim so the inch mark fits at the peak of the gable and the excess 2 inches fits along the other side of the gable. It won't fit completely, because the bottom edge isn't wide enough, but it will extend past the center gable line.
Repeat the fascia trim installation method on the other side of the gable until you reach the final piece. This time measure from the peak of the gable to the end of the last piece and add 2 inches. Hold the trim along the fascia board and use a carpenter's level to make a vertical mark at the top edge. Cut along the vertical mark and install the final piece. The vertical line at the peak of the gable should be in the exact center of the gable. It will overlap the top piece of trim on the other side.
Wrap the horizontal fascia boards before installing the aluminum fascia on the gables.Vinyl soffit and fascia has become one of the most often used products for exterior trim. It has practically replaced aluminum in new construction and home remodeling.
These items are easy to install and easy to replace if needed, and will protect exposed wood from water damage for years. Remove any existing soffit and f- or j-channel and fascia. If you have an older house, chances are these materials are aluminum. You will also need to undo the downspout from the gutter. Keep the downspout attached to the wall, but you will need to drill through the pop rivet that connects the downspout to the gutter.
Set your j-channel along the wall and nail the long side of the channel up to the underside of the soffit plywood. Use one nail every 18" or so. If there is no plywood, nail at the bottom side of each truss. Make sure to run the j-channel the full length of the wall without any gaps. Cut your soffit pieces. Since soffit runs perpendicular to the wall you will be cutting many short pieces, depending on the width of your overhang. Most overhangs are 6" or 1'. Slide one end into the j-channel and nail the far side of the soffit to the wood fascia board using one nail to keep the soffit in place until you install the vinyl fascia.
Make sure to nail in the groove to keep the soffit from buckling. Cut your vinyl fascia pieces a little bit longer than you measure so you can trim back if needed.
It's a lot better to have to trim back than to be short and need another piece. Tuck the top of the fascia under the drip edge between the shingles and roof plywood. Nail only at the top of the fascia about 1" from the top.
The Proper Way To Hang Aluminum Fascia Boards
This will keep the nail heads hidden once the gutters are re-installed.Using nailing flange of channel, nail and install along the entire length of the wall surface. Continue panel installation for entire length. Using nailing flange of channel, nail and install along the entire length of the wall surfaces and up to gable peak on side wall.
Slide panels into channel and secure into position using nails in panel grooves as required, to under edge of fascia board.
When both sides are done to this point, it may be necessary to cut a panel, bend to match peak angle and rebend edges to make interlocking jointings. Slide peak panel into position and nail.
Continue panel installation for entire side. FASCIA TRIM - Beginning at corners, cut and bend to form box see Fig 2position up snug to underside of soffit panels, predrill align with soffit grooves and nail through bottom lip of fascia trim every 36" along bottom edge of fascia board.
NEVER 'face nail' fascia. DO NOT drive nails tight — fascia must be 'hung', only snug to soffit, to allow expansion and help prevent distortion. Allow at least 1" overlap of fascia where lengths meet. Cover balance of gable end with fascia trim and cut to make overlap joint at peak.
Let our trim professionals answer your questions or help you get your upcoming project outfitted correctly.Deewangi all episodes download
We love to talk with customers and get the job done right the first time. Oklahoma Ave. Milwaukee, WI sales trimbender. Soffit and Fascia Installation. Standard Fascia. Gable Fascia. Roof Edge Fascia. Roller Bend Fascia. Trim Bender. Newsletter Subscribe. Contact Us.
Customer Photos.Fascia is the vertical edge of a roof, and aluminum fascia is an excellent option for this situation. UPDATED 26Sep Depending on how picky you are, installing aluminum soffit and fascia can be a simple part of finishing up a project, or an annoying exercise in frustration.
It all depends on how you go about it. Soffit is the horizontal area underneath a roof overhang, and fascia is the vertical face of the edge of a roof. Aluminum-cutting blade in a chopsaw. Lubing the blade with WD improves cutting results. Besides a good pair of aviation snips for medium-sized cuts, I use a pair of small, first-aid scissors for completing tiny cuts accurately. The blade I prefer is made especially for soffit and fascia work, and slices more cleanly and quietly than a regular crosscut blade.
For best results, also give a quick shot of WD to the teeth after every few cuts, to extend blade life. J-channel holds the back edge of aluminum soffit in place.
Here it is installed under the eaves of a SIPs panel roof. You can greatly reduce the scratch hazard by installing self-sticking felt pads onto the support arms of your saw.
How to Install Vinyl Soffit & Fascia
This protects the painted finish on those occasions when soffit and fascia needs to be cut with the finish facing down. I use the kind of felt sold to protect wood floors from furniture feet.Nodejs dynamic variable name
Aluminum soffit upside down and in place on the outfeed table of a chopsaw. Note the felt on the table protecting the painted surface. This phase of the work is simple, but if brick or stone veneer will be going up later, J-channel gets a little trickier.
Snap a chalk line to act as a guide, then fasten the J-channel with screws along the mark. Soffit comes next, but watch out. Aluminum nails sold for soffit and fascia work are soft and short, so it can be frustrating to drive them.
I use a framing nail as a centre punch for getting nail holes started in pieces of soffit. When expansion and contraction issues are ignored, wavy, buckled fascia is a constant eyesore. It ripples when the sun shines, and smoothens out on cloudy days. Stainless steel nail partially driven into over-sized hole in edge of fascia. The over-sized hole allows for expansion and contraction of aluminum. Instead of face nailing fascia at the top, tuck it up underneath aluminum drip edge installed around the perimeter of the roof.Alumin um fascia provides a seal for your roof that is long-lasting and more resistant to weather than wood alone.
Installing aluminum fascia does not require a great deal of skill, but it does require basic experience with few common construction tools. Pre-drill holes along the bottom edge every 6 to 8 inches.
This can be simplified by cutting a short piece of lumber or any other available material, and simply leap-frog it along the material to keep all holes spaced evenly.
Be sure that your starter holes are large enough for the tip of the hanging screws but not as large as their shaft.W221 interior
It is important that the screws force their way into the aluminum fascia in order to create a weatherproof seal. Hand the end up to your helper, and have them hold and support while you work from the starting side. Always work from one side to the other, and keep the same pattern as your work.
Slide the fascia under the drip edge. Push it upwards until the bottom plates are flush, and make sure that it extends all the way to the very edge of the roof. Insert the first screw, and be sure that the fascia is smooth and straight before the next screw is put in.
Be careful to avoid buckling in the fascia. Step back periodically and examine the work to ensure that it is running straight and smooth. Each piece should overlap the previous section of aluminum fascia by 1 to 2 inches, but the overlap should be a smooth transition that doesn't cause bumps or raised areas.
Be sure that the cuts are straight, and follow the correct angles. The final screw hole for one piece should line up with the first screw hole in the following section. If a gutter system is going to be attached after the fascia, drill the holes for mounting it before you hang the fascia. By pre-drilling the holes, you will be able to simply move along the roof and screw the gutter into place later.
Another advantage is the there will be less chance of "dimpling" the fascia if the holes are drilled in a controlled work area.
It’s time to ‘fascia’ the truth
Once the fascia has been installedhang the gutter and drain pipes. There are several different types of gutter hanging systems, but they all hang immediately below the roof edge, generally mounted with large nails or screws at intervals of around 18 inches. Once the gutter is in place, the fascia will be almost entirely concealed.
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